Apple regularly rolls out security updates to make sure your devices are properly protected against online attacks and hardware tampering. With the release of High Sierra in 2017, Apple also launched a new security feature called the Mac EFI security check. This feature scans your Mac’s Extensible Firmware Interface, or EFI firmware, against Apple’s database of good firmware.

1. Delete Efi For Mac Windows 10
2. Delete Efi For Mac High Sierra
3. Delete Efi For Mac Os
4. Delete Efi Partition Mac Terminal
5. Delete Efi For Mac Osx

Feb 23, 2019 First of all, don’t try to do this on your Mac’s internal system drive. Yes, if you use Boot Camp on your Mac and boot into Windows, you’ll see an “EFI System Partition” at the start of your Mac’s internal drive. This partition is necessary, and you shouldn’t try to remove it. It’s locked for a reason. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Partition button and wait until the volume(s) mount. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled, if supported.). Nov 01, 2011 Hi, EFI restore CD is not applied to my MBP, If I delete EFI partition can I have it back via reinstall Mac OS X?:confused::confused: Thanks for your help.

The EFIcheck utility usually resides in this directory:/usr/libexec/firmwarecheckers: eficheck. The tool runs once a week to check if your EFI firmware is included in the approved list and if it has been tampered with or corrupted. As long as there’s nothing wrong with your EFI firmware, you’ll probably never even notice that this tool is running in the background.

But if the scan encounters the incorrect firmware for that Mac’s model, then an EFI-check warning message will appear. The error message reads:

Your computer has detected a potential problem.

Click “Send to Apple” to submit a report to Apple.

Another version of the warning says:

Firmware changes detected

Click Send to report to Apple.

Click Ignore to skip sending the information.

Click Reveal in Finder to see the information that will be sent.

You will be given three choices:

• Show Report – This option will open the eficheck.dump file.
• Don’t Send – This will ignore the warning and let you proceed with your activities.
• Send to Apple – This sends the report to Apple so the support team can analyze the data and offer suggestions.

What is an eficheck.dump file? The eficheck.dump file is where all the results of the eficheck are listed for easy checking and sharing. This is useful for those who need help analyzing the results of the eficheck or want to send the results to Apple Support.

When you see this warning message, it means that there is something wrong with your Mac’s EFI firmware. Here are some of the scenarios that often result in an Eficheck error:

• Hardware replacement
• Tampered firmware
• Virus or malware infection
• Hackintosh computer
• Outdated firmware

How to Fix a Mac EFI Security Check Error?

The EFI security check warning can be caused by something as minor as a glitch or by something as complicated as firmware inconsistencies. Here are the steps you can take when you encounter an error with the Mac EFI security check.

Step #1: Send the Report to Apple.

The first thing you need to do when you get the EFI warning message is to send the report to Apple. This will help Apple’s engineers to understand what is happening to your Mac and offer suggestions on what you need to do. It might take some time, though, before Apple gets back to you regarding your report. For the meantime, you can proceed with the steps below and see if this error goes away.

Step #2: Uninstall Recent Software Changes.

If the warning message popped up after you installed an update or a third-party program, it is possible that the new installation somehow affected your EFI firmware. Try uninstalling the app you just installed by dragging it to the Trash.

If you installed an update, though, you can only restore from a backup since Apple does not offer a way to uninstall system updates.

Step #3: Clean Up Your System.

EFI firmware problems can also arise due to a virus or malware infection. Some malicious software is designed to attack the firmware of the device they infected, causing multiple problems. Run your antivirus software to scan your device for any malicious software and follow the instructions to delete the infected files.

While you’re at it, delete all your junk files as well to give your system some breathing space. You can use an app such as Outbyte MacRepair to get rid of all trash files in a single click.

Step #4: Reset EFI Check Preferences.

Another possible reason why you’re getting the Mac EFI security check warning is because of corrupted preferences of the EFIcheck utility. To reset these preferences, you need to delete the .plist file associated with this tool. It will automatically generate a new .plist file once the tool is relaunched.

To delete the EFIcheck .plist file, follow the steps below:

1. In the Finder menu, click Go.
2. Hold the Option key, then click the Library folder that appears.
3. Navigate to the Preferences folder.
4. In the search box at the upper-right corner of the window, type in EFIcheck, then hit Enter. This will show you all the .plist files associated with the EFIcheck utility.
5. Select all the .plist files from the search results, then drag them to the Trash to delete them.
6. Close the window and restart your Mac.

Step #5: Install all EFI Updates.

If you have outdated EFI firmware, you’ll most probably encounter this warning message. You can update your firmware by clicking Software Update under the Apple menu. A progress bar will appear while your Mac checks for available software updates. Click on the Install button to install them on your Mac, then restart your computer for the changes to apply.

If your Mac failed to find new firmware updates, you can manually check Apple’s website for direct links to new updates. Download the updates available for your Mac model and install them manually on your computer. Reboot your computer for the update to be completed.

Step #6: Run an EFI Check Manually.

EFI checks are scheduled to run once every week. To check if the warning has disappeared, you need to run an EFI check manually using Terminal. To do this, launch Terminal under the Utilities folder and type in the EFI command you want to use.

Here are some of the commands you can choose from and what they mean:

• eficheck –generate-hashes – This will check the system’s installed firmware and save the hashes into a hash file.
• eficheck –integrity-check – This will scan your system and automatically determine the firmware version you are running and report any discrepancies.
• eficheck –integrity-check -h [path to EFIcheck directory] – This will compare the installed EFI firmware against Apple’s expected measurements for that specific device.

Step #7: Visit an Apple Service Center.

If the warning message doesn’t disappear after following the steps above, you might need to visit the nearest Apple Service Center to have your Mac checked.

Summary

The EFI check utility is one of Apple’s security features designed to protect your Mac’s firmware from unauthorized tampering. The tool runs silently in the background every week, and you’ll only notice it when you get the warning message. When you do, just follow the steps above to get rid of it.

The Mission

There has been much controversy on removing the firmware lock on a MBP, MBA, or similar Mac’s. The MBA is a bit more complicated without a specialty tool to interface with a header on the board. We use to have to remove the board, scratch back traces, and solder directly to them which can be seen in EX-1.1. This is just short of replacing the entire chip, which is what we are all trying to avoid right? I also have a project I have been forking on called the iFLRT (Firmware Lock Removal Tool) that can be found HERE. Donate what you can to keep my development process alive, every little red cent helps.

First you need to understand what the firmware lock is and how removing it will affect you. Then maybe you will be able to decide if this procedure is for you. In most cases a MBP has been purchased from a third party who may have stolen it or simply forgotten to remove their iCloud account. In this case the symptoms would be a four digit pin lock when the OS loads. When you try to do a re-install you are met with a lock screen shown in EX-1. This is the result of the Mac being most definitely locked from the cloud. There are two options from this point which are explained below.

EX-1

EX-1.1

NOTE: If you have a 2010 model MBP or earlier all you have to do is change the amount of RAM in your MBP and clear the PRAM. This is all you have to do to get past OS lock. But you will still have a firmware lock as far as I know as in many cases this has happened. There have been occasions where the firmware lock has also been removed but I cannot contest to any exact models. Remember to set the Mac up like new and register the Mac with a new iCloud account to avoid any future lock-downs.

Option A: You can assume that a firmware lock was never set and brute force the firmware lock with a HID device such as a Teensy. This operation can take quite a while because it has to go through 10,000 iterations of possible pass-phrases in the worst case scenario. This will ONLY work if it was set by the iCloud!

Option B: You can assume that a firmware lock was indeed implicated when the MBP was set up and that the brute force method will not work. This can save you time but requires you to have a SPI programmer at hand such as the Bus Pirate or in this case a Raspberry Pi.

In A Nutshell

I won’t waste time on the brute force method as I believe it isn't relevant in most cases. I will focus on the process of flashing the EFI chip that is usually easily accessible by removing the Macs’s back-plate, either by a small 15X2 header, 17X2 header, or the 8 pin SOIC chip itself. You can see an image of the SOIC8 chip in EX-2 and the header in EX-2.1. The process is simple but requires a bit of knowledge in micro controllers. I will use the easiest and cheapest route that I know. The process goes briefly like this:

EX-2

EX-2.1

Step 1 – Buy a SPI programmer such as the Raspberry Pi and a clip to interface with the chip. You can find the Pi on eBay, doesn't matter what model and you can find the Pomona SOIC8 clip there as well, usually with the female-to-female wires included. If you have a MBA then you can contact me about purchasing a clip for the header.

Step 2 - Read the chip three times and verify MD5 check-sum to ensure you have a good backup if things go wrong.

Step 3 – Make a copy of the dump and open it in a hex editor. I use Notepad ++.

Step 4 - Search for “$SVS” in the dump and you should find 2 instances. The first instance is what you will need to clear out making sure to keep the file length the same. It is safe to replace it with an empty value such as “ÿ”. The string including the $SVS should be replaced, you can copy and paste a portion of the string below if needed. each 'ÿ' is 2 bits and 8 bits make a byte So keep that in mind when you replace the string. The file size has to be exactly the same size as the chip or it will return an error.

This is an example of what to replace in a hex editor.

Step 4.1 – Get a clean dump that is not firmware locked from the community making sure you use the correct EMC and processor architecture. Make absolutely sure it is the same size as your original dump which is usually 2, 4, or 8 MB. If you go this route then you will need to replace the serial of the donated dump with your own serial in order to not register over their Mac. You can do this my simply searching for 'override-version' and on that same line there will be an 11 to 12 digit serial number that you will replace with your own. I also have a repository found HERE which you can use to search for your EMC number and I may have a clean dump.

Step 5 – Hook your programmer up to the chip, erase the chip, write the new dump and verify it.

Step 6 – Remove the clip and turn your Mac over to turn it on and test. You will immediately use the hot-keys to get to single user mode to test.

Step 7 – If you do not get to SU mode or the Mac does not boot right you will need to erase the chip and write the old dump back to it. You then can exhaust other options.

Step 7.1 – If you do get to SU mode turn the Mac back off and use the hot-keys to clear the PRAM. This will get rid of the 4 digit lock at OS load. Or you can simply re-install at this point. Remember to register the Mac to a new iCloud account to avoid future lock downs.

NOTE: Here are a few things worth mentioning...

• Make sure your chip is supported in Flashrom which is the program you will be using to talk to the chip.
• You need to make sure the clip makes a solid connection to avoid misreads.
• You need to verify your chips datasheet to correctly identify the pin-out to the SPI programmer.
• The wires connecting the clip to the SPI programmer need not be any longer than 8 cm.
• The battery may need to be connected due to voltage drop in special cases (RARE).
• The power cable should be removed from the Mac during the entire process, up until boot time testing.
• Always make sure to back up your original dump and verify the write.
• Optionally you can wire in resistors between the SPI programmer and the clip on the 3.3v pins.

That is the entire process in a nutshell. Now I will explain how you can do this in as much detail as possible. The first thing that you will need to do is pick up your entire inventory before you begin. After that lay everything out and do some testing. Make sure your chip is supported having the datasheet and any diagrams available. I also suggest after you get the clip connected to all the wires you check for continuity from the clips pins to the end of the F-F wires on each pin.

Down And Dirty

NOTE:Read this guide in its entirety before you attempt to do anything to your Mac; Read it twice if you have to. I would also like to take this time to tell you that I am not responsible for any damages to your personal property or your physical/mental wellness if the guide is used. There is no guarantee, implied or expressed, in this procedure. You are following this guide knowingly and accept that damaging your property may be the outcome. Although I do not for see that being the case as I have tested this method many times. With that being said, let’s get started.

This is the list of things you will need in order to successfully and easily fix your MBP:

• Raspberry Pi (Doesn't matter what version) with power supply and an SD card with Rasbian installed.
• 8 Pin Pomona SOIC clip or my EFI Easy Flash clip.
• 8 Female-to-Female wires.
• Flashrom.
• Your chip's datasheet (To verify the chips pin-out and voltage requirements).

Delete Efi For Mac Windows 10

Now, I am going to assume that you at least have some experience in Linux and basic troubleshooting skills. You will run into problems and they are not all going to be the same as everyone else’s problems. So critical thinking is also required although I have not added it to the list. When you have your Raspberry Pi all set up and Raspian is booted up you will need to set it up for the first time. if you have already set it up go to the terminal and type:

Delete Efi For Mac High Sierra

sudo raspi-config

While in this configuration screen make sure to turn SPI on under Advanced. You may also turn on SSH if needed.

Then you will need to do an update by typing:

sudo apt-get update

Followed by an upgrade:

sudo apt-get upgrade

Optionally doing a distrobution upgrade:

sudo apt-get dist-upgrade

Now we have to install a few libraries that Flashrom relies on:

sudo apt-get install pciutils

sudo apt-get install libftdi-dev

sudo apt-get install libusb-dev

sudo apt-get install libpci-dev

Then you need to download the latest flashrom version:

sudo git clone https://github.com/stefanct/flashrom.git

It will be downloaded into a folder called 'flashrom' so change directory into the folder:

cd flashrom

And make it:

sudo make

Then install it:

sudo make install

Now we need to modify the blacklist by commenting out the SPI entry if it exists:

Sudo nano /etc/modprobe.d/raspi-blacklist.conf

You will need to put “#” in front of the line that reads blacklist spi-bcm2708 effectively commenting it from the configuration file. If there is nothing in the file don't worry about it, that means SPI is not blacklisted. You can then save by hitting CTL+X, Y, and ENTER. You will then need to hook the wires up to the Pi and to the clip according to the diagrams below and your chip's datasheet. In MOST cases it will be just like what you see below.

The actual pinout for most 25 series chips depicted above is as follows for those of you who need a more definitive answer:

• Pin 1 of the chip (marked with a small dot) which is CS (Chip Select) goes to pin 24 on the Raspberry Pi.
• Pin 2 of the chip which is MISO (Master Oin Slave Out) goes to pin 21 on the Raspberry Pi.
• Pin 3 of the chip which is WP (Write Protect) goes to pin 17 on the Raspberry Pi. (Usually Not Needed)
• Pin 4 of the chip which is GND (Ground) goes to pin 25 on the Raspberry Pi.
• Pin 6 of the chip which is MOSI (Master Out Slave In) goes to pin 19 on the Raspberry Pi.
• Pin 7 of the chip which is HOLD (Hold) goes to pin 17 in the Raspberry Pi. (Usually Not Needed)
• Pin 8 of the chip which is VCC (Positive Supply Voltage) goes to pin 17 on the Raspberry Pi (3.3v)

Connect the wires on the clip to the Raspberry Pi making sure it is turned off following the diagram above. The GPIO pin that is closest to the corner of the Raspberry Pi is pin 2, keep that in mind or read the manual. After you are all connected you will place the clip on the chip snugly and turn the Pi on. Go to your working directory and run the following commands using some discretion.

**Start of the Flashrom process**

Get to the help page:

sudo flashrom --help

List the supported chips:

sudo flashrom –L

Read the flash chip by using the below command three times:

sudo flashrom –r ~/efi/read1.bin -V -p linux_spi:dev=/dev/spidev0.0

Delete Efi For Mac Os

Erase the chip after you have verified all three reads have a matching MD5 hash:

sudo flashrom -E -V -p linux_spi:dev=/dev/spidev0.0

Using the methods explained above either modify or get a clean dump making sure it is the same size as the original ROM and write it to the chip:

sudo flashrom -w ~/efi/new.bin -V -p linux_spi:dev=/dev/spidev0.0

Verify the chips contents with the file that you just wrote to ensure its integrity:

sudo flashrom -v ~/efi/bnew.bin -V -p linux_spi:dev=/dev/spidev0.0

Delete Efi Partition Mac Terminal

If you have not run into any problems you will have a freshly flashed chip. If you did run into issue, use the forum here to start a thread and we will help you troubleshoot your error messages. The reason I always use the –V command is to ensure a verbose output. At this point shut your Pi down and then remove the clip. You will then replace your power supply to the Mac and then turn it on using hot-keys to try and get to SU mode. If you get to SU mode you will shut back down and use the hot-keys to clear PRAM and reinstall setting the Mac up as a new machine. Make sure to register it with a newly created or existing iCloud account to prevent further incidents. If you did not get to SU mode you will need to erase your chip and try again.

Delete Efi For Mac Osx

That’s it folks, this is the long awaited guide that has more than enough information to get you through the process. It is specifically designed to save you money in the recovery of your Mac and to seamlessly work through any prior issues you may have had using Flashrom with a windows PC. If this guide has helped you please think about the years of work I have spent making this possible for you and donate to my iFLRT project to make it even easier for others. Or you can donate to me by using the slider on the edge of the left hand side of the page to donate to my personal PayPal account. Good luck to you all and Happy Hunting…